Saturday, June 4, 2011

Notable ascents and attempts Of Shishapangma

  • 1980 7 May, "Northern Route", (2nd ascent) by Michl Dacher, Wolfgang Schaffert, Gunter Sturm and Fritz Zintl; Sigi Hupfauer and Manfred Sturm (12 May); as part of a German expedition.
  • 1980: 13 October, "Northern Route", (3rd ascent) by Ewald Putz and Egon Obojes, as part of an Austrian expedition.
  • 1981: 30 April, "Northern Route", (4th ascent) by Junko Tabei, Rinzing Phinzo and Gyalbu Jiabu, as part of a Japanese women's expedition.
  • 1981: 28 May, "Northern Route", (5th ascent) by Reinhold Messner and Friedl Mutschlechner, as part of an Austrian expedition.
  • 1982: 28 May, "British Route", southwest face (alpine style), FA by Doug Scott, Alex Macintyre and Roger Baxter-Jones (all UK). Route follows the right-hand couloir on the southwest face.
  • 1987: 18 July, Elsa Ávila and Carlos Carsolio become the first Mexicans to summit Shishapangma. For Ávila, her first eight-thousander and for Carsolio, his second, via the northern face/ridge to the central summit, then along the arete to the main summit, with Wanda Rutkiewicz, Ramiro Navarrete, and Ryszard Warecki.
  • 1987: 18 September, west ridge, FA by Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer (both Poland). Kukuczka skied down from near the summit on this his fourteenth eight-thousander.
  • 1987: 19 September, central couloir, north face, FA by Alan Hinkes (UK) and Steve Untch (USA).
  • 1989: Central buttress, southwest face, Andrej Stemfelj and Pavle Kozjek.
  • 1990: Left-hand couloir, southwest face, Wojciech Kurtyka (Poland), Erhard Loretan (Switzerland) and Jean Troillet (France)
  • 1993: Far-right couloir, southwest face, solo by Krzysztof Wielicki (Poland).

  • 2002: 5 May, "Korean Route" on southwest face, Park Jun Hun and Kang Yeon Ryoung (both South Korea).
  • 2004: 11 December, Jean-Christophe Lafaille (France) provokes controversy when he climbs the "British Route" on the southwest face, solo, and claims a winter ascent. Since this was not calendar winter, he changes his claim to an ascent "in winter conditions."
  • 2005: 14 January, first (calendar) winter ascent by Piotr Morawski (Poland) and Simone Moro (Italy).
  • 2011: 16–17 April, Ueli Steck (Switzerland) solos the southwest face in 10.5 hours, leaving base camp (5,306m) at 10:30 pm on 16 April and returning to base camp 20 hours later.
Approximately 22 people have died climbing Shishapangma, including Alex Lowe and Dave Bridges (both USA) in 1999, and veteran Portuguese climber Bruno Carvalho. Nevertheless, Shishapangma is one of the easier eight-thousanders to climb. The standard route ascends from the north side, and boasts relatively easy access, with vehicle travel possible to base camp at 5,000 m (16,400 ft). Routes on the steeper southwest face are more technically demanding and involve 2,200 metres (7,218 feet) of ascent on a 50-degree slope.


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