Friday, June 3, 2011

Other peaks in the Dhaulagiri

Mountain Height (m) Height (ft) Coordinates Prominence (m) First ascent
30 Dhaulagiri II 7,751 25,430 28°45′50″N 83°23′15″E 2,391 1971
Dhaulagiri III 7,715 25,311 28°45′17″N 83°22′37″E 135 1973
Dhaulagiri IV 7,661 25,135 28°44′12″N 83°18′52″E 469 1969
Dhaulagiri V 7,618 24,992 28°44′05″N 83°21′41″E 340 1975

Dhaulagiri VI 7,268 23,845 28°42′30″N 83°16′27″E 453 1970
72 Churen Himal (Main) 7,385 24,229 28°44′06″N 83°12′58″E 600 unknown‡
Churen Himal (East) 7,371 24,229 28°44′33″N 83°13′51″E 150 1970
Churen Himal (West) 7,371 24,183 28°43′55″N 83°12′45″E 70 1970
Dhaulagiri VI 7,268 23,845 28°42′30″N 83°16′32″E 485 1970
95 Putha Hiunchuli 7,246 23,773 28°44′50″N 83°08′55″E 1,151 1954
Gurja Himal 7,193 23,599 28°40′26″N 83°16′37″E 500 1969
False Junction Peak 7,150 23,458 28°43′00″N 83°16′38″E 400 1970
Junction Peak 7,108 23,320 28°43′19″N 83°16′38″E 20 1972

† Only peaks above 7,200 m with more than 500 m (1,640 ft) of topographic prominence are ranked.
‡ The status of Churen Himal's three peaks is unclear and sources differ on their heights. The coordinates, heights and prominence values above are derived from the Finnmap. The first ascent data is from Neate, but it is unclear if the first ascent of Churen Himal East was actually an ascent of the highest of the three peaks, as Neate lists Churen Himal Central as a 7,320 m subpeak of Churen Himal East.
Most of the named 7,000 metre peaks are on a ridge extending WNW, separated from Dhaulagiri I by 5,355m French Pass at 28°46'55"N, 83°31'54"E. In order they are Dhaulagiri II, III, V, IV, Junction Peak, Churens East, Central and West, then Putha Hiunchuli. False Junction Peak, Dhaulagiri VI and Gurja are on a ridge extending south from Junction Peak. The British Alpine Club's Himalayan Index lists 37 more peaks over 6,000 m

Climbing History

  • 1954 - J.O.M. Roberts and Sherpa Ang Nyima climb Putha Hiunchuli, first major summit ascent in the range.
  • 1955 - Dh.II attempted by J.O.M Roberts and others.
  • 1959
  1. Pre-monsoon and post-monsoon reconnaissances of Dh.II by Japanese expeditions.
  2. Hangde 6556m in Mukut section attempted.
  • 1962
  1. Churen attempt from north by Japanese Nihon University expedition. Climbed Hangde (~6600m), Tongu (~6250m), P6265 during approach/acclimation through Hidden Valley; also Kantokal (~6500m) north of Putha Hiunchili.
  2. Churen and Dh.VI attempt from south by J.O.M. Roberts, thinking he was on Dh.IV due to inaccurate maps. Climbed a lower peak (6,529m) near Gurja, naming it Ghustang after the stream draining the cirque they climbed in.
  • 1963
  1. Dh.II attempt by Austrian expedition, reaching 7,000m
  2. Dh.III attempt
  • 1965
  1. Japanese expedition to Dh.II delayed two months by heavy snow in approach passes. Lost two porters to avalanche, then another porter was injured in a fall and needed evacuation. This left too little food to continue.
  2. J.O.M. Roberts leads British R.A.F. expedition to Dh.VI, still believing it was Dh.IV. Defeated by late monsoon, then early winter storms creating excessive avalanche risk.
  • 1969
  1. Dh.IV attempt by Austrian Alpine Club. Five Austrians and one Sherpa disappear, may have summited.
  2. Gurja climbed by Japanese expedition..
  3. First authorized ascents of Tukuche 6920m and Tukuche West 6800m.
  • 1970
  1. Japan's Kansai Mountaineering Club unsuccessful on Dh.IV in April but climbed Dh.VI and False Junction Peak..
  2. Korean expedition claims they summited Churen East on April 29. Questioned by same year Japanese expedition, see next.
  3. Japanese expedition climbs Churen Central and Churen West on Oct. 24.
  • 1971
  1. First ascent of Dh.II on May 18 by German expedition.
  2. Dh.IV attempt
  3. Dh.V attempted by pre- and post-monsoon Japanese expeditions. Both ended by fatal accidents.
  • 1972 - Dh.IV attempted twice by Japanese expeditions. First attempt abandoned when a climber fell ill and died at 6200m. Second expedition climbed via crest from west, found route too long at high elevation (7,000m+). Climbed Dh.VI and Junction Peak.
  • 1973
  1. first ascent of Dh.III on October 20 by German expedition.
  2. Dh.IV attempted by Austrians who reached 7250m on N face, then by British who quit after two deaths.
  • 1974
  1. Dh.IV attempt by British R.A.F. expedition abandoned after three sherpas killed by falling ice.
  2. In Mukut section: ascents of Parbat Rinchen 6200m, Parbat Talpari 6248m, West Himparkhal 6248m, East Himparkhal 6227m, Tashi Kang III 6157m
  • 1975
  1. Dh.IV climbed May 9 by S. Kawazu and E. Yusuda, who died on descent, bringing death toll on Dh.IV to 14. (Compared to 13 deaths on Mount Everest before it was successfully climbed in 1953.) Another Japanese expedition in October puts ten on summit without loss of life.
  2. Dh.V climbed by M. Morioka and sherpa Pembu Tsering on Japanese expedition.
  • 1979 - Japanese traverse Dh.II, III and V along 7,150m+ crest. Expedition led by a woman.


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